If you’ve got yourself a bearded dragon, you will probably want to know what sex it is.  It will be very difficult for you to find out while he or she is still young.  Therefore, you will need to wait awhile before trying to find out for certain.

Once your beardie is a few months old, you should be able to tell it’s gender.  There are a few differences between male and female dragons that you can look for.  Here is how to tell the sex of a bearded dragon.

Bulge

One of the most common ways to tell the difference is to look on the underside of your beardie’s tail.  Dragons usually have one or two bulges just above the vent.  If there are two distinct bulges then you have a male bearded dragon.  Females tend to have only one bulge.  However, sometimes a male will appear to have only one bulge.  Some dragons don’t even have one.

Head

The next difference between females and males is the head.  Females usually have narrow, pointy heads.  A male dragon will have a broader and larger head.  However, like the previous method of sexing bearded dragons, it’s not entirely accurate since their heads can be the same size sometimes.

Pores

Femoral pores are a row of bumps located on the underside of your dragon’s thigh.  Females tend to have very small pores.  Males have large femoral pores.

Tail

One of the final methods used to sex bearded dragons is to look at the base of the tail.  Male beardies have a thick base.  Tails of females are generally more slender.

Want to know the sex of your bearded dragon?  There are a few things you can look for.  Keep reading to find out…

Your bearded dragon will shed his skin on a regular basis. Shedding allows them to get rid of their top layer of skin and replace it with a new layer. This usually occurs while he’s in the process of growing. This article will discuss everything you need to know about bearded dragon shedding.

Frequency

Your dragon will shed his skin frequently before he turns a year old. This is due to the fact that he’s growing very rapidly. After he turns a year

Bearded Dragon Shedding

old, he will stop shedding as much. There is no set schedule on when your beardie will shed. It all depends on when his growth spurts occur and his overall growth rate.

Behavior

Be prepared for your dragon to act differently while shedding. It’s very stressful for him, so he’ll likely be very irritable. He probably won’t want you to touch or hold him very much. So, try to give him plenty of space when he’s shedding.

Whatever you do, don’t try to speed the process along by peeling some of the old layer of skin off. It’s very easy for you to damage the new layer of skin or scales that haven’t formed yet. Your dragon will be doing all he can to get the old layer off. You’ll probably see him rubbing up against branches and rocks in an effort to do so. Moisture

If you want to help your beardie shed a little easier, you should provide him with plenty of moisture. One option is to soak him in shallow warm water for a little while. You could also mist him more often than you usually do. Food

Your dragon will probably stop eating as much food while he’s shedding. He may even stop eating entirely. This can be bad if it takes a long time for him to shed. Therefore, you should try to speed up the process up a little by misting and bathing him often.

Your bearded dragon will shed his skin on a regular basis. Shedding allows them to get rid of their top layer of skin and replace it with a new layer. This usually occurs while he’s in the process of growing. This article will discuss everything you need to know about bearded dragon shedding.

Reptiles and UVB and UVA

This is a general over view for all reptiles remember your bearded dragon is a desert reptile. All of the products mention below are available in our Store (Visit The Store Click Here)  We have many other light available and you cane choose what is best for your bearded friend acording to the size,budget and situation by reading the below article you will know 99% more then the average bearded dragon owner.

UVB:
UVB is a necessary part of the process in which vitamin D3 is produced in the skin of humans and
animals, and is also what causes sunburn in humans. The vitamin D3 that is produced is responsible for
regulating calcium metabolism. Vitamin D3 is obtained through diet or UVB exposure. Since most reptile
species are unable to utilize dietary vitamin D3, they must have access to UVB. A lack of UVB and
vitamin D3 can ultimately result in metabolic bone disease in reptiles, and rickets in humans. Nearly all
animals that are active during the day are exposed to UVB.

In the early days of keeping reptiles, little was known about the specialized lighting requirements of the
majority of reptile species. During this time, reptiles housed indoors were not exposed to UVB, and as a
result would often develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). MBD causes reptiles’ bones to become soft
resulting in severe deformities of the spine, broken legs, and soft jaws. In severe cases, the internal
organs would calcify and become hard which ultimately resulted in death.

The majority of the cases of MBD occurred in Green Iguanas due to their popularity as pets, and to the
fact that UVB exposure was necessary in order for them to remain healthy.We understood that
Iguanas kept outdoors did not develop MBD, while Iguanas fed the same diet but housed indoors did.
This prompted Zoo Med to experiment with UVB in fluorescent lighting, and ultimately led to the release
of the ReptiSun line of UVB lamps. Zoos, Veterinarians and hobbyists soon learned that all but the
worst cases of MBD were reversible upon exposure to Zoo Med’s ReptiSun lighting. In addition, reptiles
that had access to UVB from ReptiSun lamps as hatchlings never developed MBD.

We now know that most diurnal (daytime active) reptiles require UVB. Since the release of the
ReptiSun UVB lamps, dozens of scientific studies have confirmed their beneficial effect on reptiles.
From the results of these studies, we can now make recommendations on exposure times, distances,
and lamp replacement intervals.

Researchers have determined the UVB levels required by some reptile species in captivity. For tropical
species, including chameleons and Iguanas, UVB levels of 13 to 30 MW/cm2 (microwatts per square
centimeter) are recommended when lamps are used 10 to 12 hours per day. Desert species (e.g.
Bearded Dragons) can tolerate slightly higher levels from 13 to 150 MW/cm2. For all reptile species, it is
important to provide a UVB gradient that allows the reptile to adjust its UVB exposure. All reptiles
should have access to a minimum of 13 microwatts of UVB in order to synthesize vitamin D3,
metabolize calcium, and maintain healthy bone density.

Lamps that emit less than 13 microwatts at the reptiles basking site should not be used as they are
likely incapable of providing sufficient UVB. Reptiles that do not get enough UVB are in danger of
developing Metabolic Bone Disease. Reptiles also require heat in order to benefit from UVB and
synthesize vitamin D3. Levels above 150 microwatts are seen in nature, but can be dangerous in a
captive setting. Screen covers on terrariums filter out a portion of the UVB from all lamps, while glass
and most plastics filter out 100% of the UVB.

UVA:
It is well established in the scientific literature that reptiles and amphibians can actually see UVA. This
has also been documented in birds and fish. Humans have three different types of cones in our retina,
each one being sensitive to different wavelengths. From these three types, we are able to make up our
entire color spectrum. Humans that are red/green colorblind lack the third cone type and only have two.
Birds, reptiles and amphibians possess FOUR different cone types instead of three. The fourth cone is
sensitive to emissions in the UVA portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. This fourth “primary color”
makes up the birds entire range of visible light.

By not providing UVA, reptiles are essentially colorblind. It is similar to the condition of colorblindness in
humans. Knowing this, it could be considered negligent to deny pet reptiles access to UVA as this is
essential to their psychological well being. Studies have shown that glands on the hind legs of some
lizards secrete a substance that reflects UVA and is used by them to mark territories. UVA plays a role
in habitat selection, species recognition, and in mate selection among reptiles and amphibians.
Types of UVB lamps available:
We offers three different types of UVB lamps; linear fluorescent, compact fluorescent, and
mercury vapor.

ReptiSun 5.0 and 10.0 Linear Fluorescent: The linear fluorescent was the first UVB lamp available,
and fits into standard fluorescent fixtures. These German made lamps provide UVB, UVA, and
visible light. They do not provide heat. The linear fluorescent ReptiSun is offered in two different
models (5.0 and 10.0). The model used depends on the distance of the lamp to the reptile and the
amount of UVB required. In addition to UVB, heat is necessary for vitamin D3 synthesis and must be
provided by a separate heat source. These lamps come in a variety of lengths depending on the
size of the cage. Independent scientific studies have shown that these lamps are effective for a
minimum of 12 months.

ReptiSun 5.0 and 10.0 Compact Fluorescent: Compact fluorescent lamps have a screw base and
screw into a standard clamp lamp fixture. They are self-ballasted and do not require a separate
ballast. These also provide UVB, UVA, and visible light. They do not provide heat. The compact
fluorescent ReptiSun is offered in the same two models (5.0 and 10.0) as the linear fluorescent line.
Again, heat is necessary for vitamin D3 synthesis and must be provided by a separate heat source.
These lamps offer the convenience of providing UVB using a standard screw-base type fixture.
PowerSun UV Mercury Vapor: The PowerSun UV mercury vapor lamps provide UVB, UVA, visible
light and heat. This is the only lamp that provides heat in addition to UV. These lamps screw into a
clamp lamp fixture with a ceramic/porcelain socket and do not require a separate ballast. The
PowerSun UV is available in two wattages (100 watt and 160 watt). The wattage required depends
on heat and UV requirements, and the distance of the lamp to the reptile.
Iguana Light 5.0 Linear Fluorescent: This lamp is equivalent to the ReptiSun 5.0 linear fluorescent,
and was developed to assure the consumer that this lamp is safe and effective for use with
Iguanas.

ReptiSun 2.0 Linear Fluorescent: The ReptiSun 2.0 linear fluorescent provides UVA and bright
visible light, but does provide significant levels of UVB. Amphibians and snakes have specialized
retinas that allow them to see UVA. This lamp is a good choice for these species.