Owners of Bearded Dragon should avoid

There’s an entire list that us as Bearded dragon owners should avoid exposing our dragons to. It can lead to injury, sickness, death or Fireflies / Lightening Bugs – These bugs are positively fatal to a whiskered dragon.

Inside mins of eating one the Bearded dragon will usually start shaking its head violently, gaping as if to try to regurgitate  barf the firefly back up, exhibiting dreadful respiring issues. Basically it is simply not a great thing to look at. Finally the dragon will die. There is not any saving it. Fireflies have a steroid type substance called lucibufagin. It acts like a stimulant to the heart.

Fireflies use this substance as a shield against predators. Fundamentally it is like giving a major overdose of heart medicine to a pogona vitticeps. A hairy dragon will typically die between thirty mins – two hours after eating one. PLEASE don’t feed them and please watch what’s near them should they be outside.

Heat Rocks – These devices should totally be drew off the market. They’re commercially sold in pet stores. While the idea sounds like a good idea….as hairy dragons need warm rocks in their enclosure to rest on after eating to help aid digestion… These rocks get TOO HOT, leading to thermal burns. Please just employ a regular Ole rock and put it near your luxuriating sector for your dragon. Don’t put the rock without delay under the heat as that too can get too hot for them. Ever seen your dragon go on his rock and curl his toes up slightly? Thats an indication that the rock is too hot for them.

Lettuces – Has virtually no nutritive price and has too much water in it. If your dragon eats iceberg lettuce or any other kind of lettuce he will be able to get butt rot so causing dehydration.

Avocados – Toxic to a Bearded Dragon

Rhubarb – Toxic to a Bearded Dragon

deadly to a Bearded Dragon Prey caught outside – You are outside and you see a cool bug, or crickets and you wish to feed them to your dragon… NOT a great idea. Bugs aren’t contained to your own back yard – they travel and who knows where they’ve been or what they have eating or walked on. Many of us use herbicides, pesticides and other chemicals on their grass, trees, gardens, and terraces.

What if that bug walked thru a garden that had ant killer? Or was on a tree that was being treated, or on grass which has a herbicide on it? That chemical would also be ingested by your dragon when he eats that bug that was caught outside. Could be dangerous ; is it worth the risk? Large food Greens, vegatables, worms & bugs should be size acceptable for your dragon. Please ensure they’re no larger than the space between their eyes or the width of their mouth. Failure to try this can lead to a complete host an issues caused by terminal Digestion . They’ll swallow things that are too big for them particularly tiny dragons. Whatever they swallowed can become lodged in their abdominal tract causing serious discomfort.

Signs this has occurred is they’ll extend their limbs straight back. Terminal consumption could cause paralysis. Sadly , should this occurred it is improbable you’ll be able to save your dragon. Please make the effort to ensure their food is the perfect size. Stick-on Thermometers or analog Thermometers – These thermometers can be off by as much as twenty ! CRAZY? Your best chance is to employ a digital thermometer or temp gun. Folks hear the word digital and think “oh no its going to be expensive”, but you’d be stunned. I have got digital thermometers with probe from 2 departments stores in their out of doors thermometer section for as little as $6 us. That is less expensive than almost all of those thermometers they sell in the pet stores that do not work. Temp guns are great too.

They also are less expensive than you would think.

Too much fruit – agree with it or not Bearded Dragons can get cavities! Too much fruit is not a good thing. A bit of fruit once per week is ok. Try hard not to give fruit more frequently than that. Acute Heat – Yes, Bearded dragons are desert creatures but they can get too hot. Please use the advised temperatures as a tenet to heating your enclosures. In no fashion does it need to be precisely as recommended, some dragons like it a little hotter, some like it a little cooler.Overheating your dragon can be dangerous. Especially be aware of exiting the winter months and heading into spring as your house temperatures rise so does your enclosures!

Dragons of different sizes Mixing dragons of different sizes isn’t a smart idea in any way. If the size is TOO great i.e.

Baby & adult – the adult WILL eat the baby.

Juvie & adult – it is doubtful the adult will eat the juvie but it can heavy harm or kill the Juvie. Even baby & Juvie will eat, injure or kill the baby. Even if they’re brothers, ma & baby, pa & baby and so on. There’s no “familial bonds” in the hairy dragon world. Anything bigger is a predator and anything smaller is food. Please exercise caution when putting dragons together even for a minute.

They have to be the same size or damn close to it. You do not need to make that cock up even once as you will not shortly forget all about it. It does not actually have to be that dramatic but it can be…

But dragons together that are dissimilar size groupings can & will cause fantastic stress on the smaller one, they are going to refuse to eat much if anything whatsoever, fail to flourish and finally die from starvation. Intimidation doesn’t even always occur outwardly, clearly or during feeding time. Just being in the same enclosure can be enough to start a downward spiral for the smaller one.

If you notice a dragon isn’t eating, failing to flourish they need to be separated right away. If they do not pick up their eating in 1 or 2 days, maybe there’s another underlying issue and a vet trip should be prepared. Avoid Feeding Funny Foods   I know enticement gets the best of us… It’s man’s nature but please avoid feeding your dragon foods that way down you know you should not feed them like chocolate, fries, pizza. It is not good for them! Holding or Putting Your Dragon on His Back – Doing this depresses your Dragon’s respiration system and this action could really be quite lethal. Some have made the error of thinking their dragon likes this because they are able to appear calm and close their eyes. It cuts off their oxygen if held there long enough and it can be lethal to your dragon. Please do not do this! Calcium Sand ( Calci-Sand ), Crushed Walnut Shell and lots of other dubious substrates – These particular substrates have been seen to have probably devastating results.

These sharpened pieces of substrate can become lodged in their intestinal track causing blockages and / orhemmoraging so please do your homework before using any actual substrate. You will find recommendation in the Care Info Library under Bearded Dragon Basic Care. Too Cool At night your dragon can safely go into the mid sixty’s without concern but their day time temperatures should be way higher. They should have a pleasant hot luxuriating sector ( 95-105 for juvies & older and 105-115 for hatchlings – juvie ) and a cooler area for them to retreat to should they be too hot. Failure to have your cage & section temperatures inside correct ranges and if humidity is too high it might result in Respiration Infections. Baytril is mostly prescribed for this, but if you catch it very fast and adjust your cage temperatures – that may customarily cure the difficulty. If in 1 or 2 days your dragon doesn’t appear to be improving a visit to the vet is a total must.

Tagged with: bearded dragon lizards • bearded dragon mating • bearded dragon substrate • bearded dragon vivarium

Filed under: Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

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